Johannesburg is about contrasts. Happy, excited young children jumping, dancing to music and obeying the strict glare of the instructor at the front, a glare undermined by warm smiles of volunteers observing the joy. Surrounded, metres away, by the worst levels of violence, drug addiction, prostitution and early mortality in this city and on this continent amid profound urban decay. We were at the base of Ponte Tower, an iconic part of the Jozi skyline, itself a microcosm of South Africa’s history and challenges. And the group supporting the kids was Dlala Nje, a Civil Society group formed in 2012 to counteract the decline of this neighbourhood, and to provide essential support and learning opportunities to vulnerable Johannesburg youth.
Dlala Nje provide tours to earn income, but also challenge misconceptions about this part of Jozi, that has a formidable reputation for housing some of the worst statistics of depravation and inequality. Our guide, Delight, himself a former child supported by the group, gestured to the excited children and said simply that while they were here they weren’t outside, learning to steal, rob, use violence or become introduced to drugs. Their dance instructor, another volunteer, travels here from Soweto, where he learned to dance on the streets as a boy, and dreams of building new futures in each of these children’s potential. Dlala Nje means “just play”. And in the upturned excited faces of these children we see them do just that, feeling safe and cherished and able to be children. As a start to a tour, it was like being hit with an overwhelming wave of the very best of humanity while surrounded by the worst. Jozi is all about contrasts.
Hope versus hopelessness
There are some excellent
histories of Berea/Hillbrow but the executive summary is that it was largely
built in the sixties and by the early seventies was a fashionable and affluent
part of White Apartheid South Africa. Ponte Tower was the des-res place to be.
But following the dawn of democracy the area shifted dramatically, the wealthy
fled and it steadily declined into a zone now dominated by hijacked buildings,
destitution, drug addiction and violence. Ponte Tower itself, famously
cylindrical, accumulated fourteen floors of rubbish inside, including the dead:
victims of violence or despair. You can now stand at the bottom of the tower,
on the bedrock, and look up – from literal rock bottom to a brighter future as
the sun streams in, lighting a secure and mixed community of residents.
Venturing outside, however, and you leave progress behind. Straddling Lily Street, Berea, are two buildings. One hijacked, the other abandoned. There is zero sanitation in either, and residents include people so addicted to drugs they slowly die and are removed regularly by paramedics. The basement of one is an un-serviced latrine, with an overpowering stench. Sheets and blankets flap limply in the wind as smoke rises from within. All windows or metal, including fire stairs, have been removed, to sell for scrap and just the shell remains. This is where prostitution, criminality and a desperate level of hopelessness is all-consuming.
Yet walk a block or two on, and you
see the word Ithemba – meaning hope – on street signs. The Ithemba Foundation
took over adjoining blocks, installed security and proactively manages both
property and local services. The result is stark: well maintained roads, no air
of menace and ultimately a brighter prospect for the families living there.
More contrasts. And a reminder of how many South Africans frequently do not
rely on the State, they turn to their own solutions.
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Alec Gorshel park |
Walking through Alec Gorshel
Park, and looking ahead to Hillbrow’s main streets we see two futures. The
vibrancy of organised sports among some girls playing netball. The destitution of other young people, smoking narcotics, as they
watch on. Burnt refuse and syringes ring this park, but it is possible to see
hope.
Which is challenged passing ‘gumtree wall’; named for ads stuck with gum on
this famous Hillbrow spot advertising shared rooms, even shared beds as
people try to keep heads above water. We also see ads for
unlicensed abortion pills, taken by young girls fearing stigma but risking lifelong injury or infertility. Onwards to more exploitation; the
Summit Club. A former sports club now a licensed bar,
but with the sex trade openly advertised. South Africa has some of the highest
HIV infection rates on this continent. Someone has placed an ATM at the
entrance.
Towering hope
Back to Ponte we wander, having witnessed the contest between hope and despair playing out on these streets, on this Saturday morning. Back to the play centre and the dancing children. The skills centre for adolescents striving for a better future. Where they teach single mothers how to sew, to earn their own income and gain independence, reducing vulnerability to exploitation. Each small step forward are critical to these children reaching their potential, and with them this wonderful, complex, country of contrasts.
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Rock Bottom: foundations of Ponte Tower |