Stadtwald forest: Germany |
And there were more. This time a dull, blunt and rounded chunk of
metal embedded deep into another tree: the remnant of a heavy machine gun and a
reminder of the hell that had been unleashed here. We were told it is common to find bullets and shrapnel embedded in
these trees.
We had come to the forest to cut a Christmas tree in the
late days of December; an ancient tradition in this part of western Germany.
The families we were the privileged guests of showed us around these quiet
hills which, cloaked in freezing mist and joined by warm mulled wine with even warmer company, were a memorable
part of this year’s Christmas for us.
The contrast, for me, was profound and at once a reminder of
how far Europe has travelled away from its blood soaked past but also of the
risks that never really go away.
After all there we were: a family from England who had met a family
from Germany on holiday – in France. Standing in beautiful countryside and
sharing traditions. That was the progress part.
But there we also were, in the same forest where our grandfathers
had slaughtered one another; as a result of a political elite’s collective
failure to address the rise of extremism which itself had been made possible by
their failure to manage the global economy.
Sadly that last bit about the failure of elites and the rise of extremism
is an increasingly accurate description of the countries of Southern Europe.
When I was in Liberia earlier this year I met a Greek guy about the same age as
me, in his mid thirties. He’d never been to Africa before and ended up in a
fairly random job in West Africa simply because he had been so desperate to get
out. He gave accounts of elderly people being wheeled out of care homes and left on
the streets because their families could no longer afford the fees. That was
terrible enough.
Golden Dawn rally: Greece |
But then he mentioned something, in passing, which was even
more troubling. Before he left he’d voted for the fascist Golden Dawn party,
who now occupy seats in the Greek Parliament. When I asked him why he told me
he wasn’t a fascist, he’d moved to Africa after all, but the political system “needed
a shock”. It could have been straight out of the mouth of a suddenly impoverished 1930s
worker in Weimar Germany, casting their vote for the Nazis, to "send a message".
While in India the appeal of Hitler seems to lie in a perception that he was a firm leader who "got things done". Many businesses now appear to be cashing in on the Nazi brand, and sales of Mein Kampf are described as "brisk". Those Indians who seem to admire Nazi Germany do not do so because they are filled with hate or are anti semitic, they appear to be responding to the appeal of charismatic leadership, which they describe feeling India lacks.
And therein lies the problem. If it is possible for the passage of time to sanitise a period even as blood drenched and cataclysmic as the Third Reich, then can we really be so complacent as to imagine it could never happen again?
While in India the appeal of Hitler seems to lie in a perception that he was a firm leader who "got things done". Many businesses now appear to be cashing in on the Nazi brand, and sales of Mein Kampf are described as "brisk". Those Indians who seem to admire Nazi Germany do not do so because they are filled with hate or are anti semitic, they appear to be responding to the appeal of charismatic leadership, which they describe feeling India lacks.
And therein lies the problem. If it is possible for the passage of time to sanitise a period even as blood drenched and cataclysmic as the Third Reich, then can we really be so complacent as to imagine it could never happen again?
That night in Germany, over more drinks and by the warmth of a fire,
our hosts and I reflected on how our own generation’s world view had been shaped
by the Cold War but how the fall of the Berlin Wall was now but a chapter in
our children’s textbooks. To them the idea that they could be at war with each other was a
bizarre notion. And yet one of our hosts as a girl had been taught how to use a
rifle by her grandfather, fearful of a future return to the carnage and mass rape that accompanied the Russian advance into Germany from the East which he
had experienced first-hand.
Stuff of textbooks |
As Europeans it is tempting sometimes to focus only on the progress we’ve made, and
the EU's role in that was recently recognised. But the unfolding
political chaos in Greece, with the prospect of more countries to follow,
surely means we have no room for complacency at all. And in the beautiful forests
of western Germany trees bearing hidden bullets stand silently testament to that.